Tea Dispenser and Holder

This dispenser holds four Bigelow Tea Boxes. The bottom inch of each tea box is cut open for dispensing the tea bags through the holder.
 

Main Fabric A (cut 1): 12 inches by 18 inches.
Main Fabric B/lining (cut 1): 12 inches by 18 inches.
Main Heavy fusible (cut 1): 11 inches by 17 inches. By cutting the heavy fusible smaller than the main fabric, then bulk is reduced and sewing is easier.
 
Side Fabric A (cut 2): 5 ¾ inches by 3 ¾ inches.
Side Fabric B/lining (cut 2): 5 ¾ inches by 3 ¾ inches.
Side Heavy Fusible (cut 2): 5 ¼ inches by 3 ¼ inches.

Lace and ribbon for closing the front. Buttons and elastic can be used as a substitute for the ribbons and lace.
 
I made five different tea dispensers. This is a shot of two of the different materials used for the sides. The “Princess” fabric was directional and did not work well for the pattern that I created for this dispenser. The brocade fabric worked better as it did not matter what direction the fabric was cut.
 
Layer Fabric A right side out, heavy fusible, and Fabric B right side out. Make sure the fusible is centered and iron in place. Do that for the main section and the two side sections. Sew ¼ inch from the raw edge on the short sides of the main rectangle. Fold and press on the sewn line. Sew each side again to secure the edge down.
 
Determine which end will be the front flap and sew the fold lines into the main section of the fabric on the following measurements from the edge (all measurements are from the front edge):
4 ½ inches
8 ¼ inches
14 inches

*Note that after the line was sewn on the 14 inch mark, then there should be 3 ¾ inches left which will be the bottom side of the dispenser.

Fold and press on the sewing lines.

There should now be definite panels for the front, top, back, and bottom sections on the main rectangle.
 
Add lace or ribbon to the bottom of the front flap for decoration and add approximately 12 inches on each side of lace or ribbon that will tie and close the dispenser.
 
Determine which side sections will be on the right and which will be on the left. Fold a ¼ inch of the side panel that will face the front and sew to secure and to give a finished edge. Sew ribbon or lace to the front of the side flaps at 4 ½ inches from the top to tie to the front flap and keep the dispenser closed.
 
Sew the sides to the main section by lining the back of the side to the back section of the main fabric right sides together. Then sew the bottom of the main fabric to the bottom of the side section. Sew the top of the main fabric to the top of the side section. Note: If you wish to hang your dispenser, then sew the ribbon or lace to the top of the dispenser at this time by slipping it between the side top section and the main top section. Leave the front of the dispenser open for filling. Repeat sewing instructions on the other side of the dispenser. Remember to leave the front panel open for filling on that side as well. Turn so the right side is facing out.
 
Insert the tea boxes into the dispenser. Mark the part of the tea box that will be aligned with the opening of the dispenser. Cut a rectangular opening an inch across the bottom of the cardboard tea box. Align the opening to the opening on the dispenser. Tie the ribbons or lace to close. Hang on hook or leave on counter for dispensing tea.

No Sew Christmas Wreath

No Sew Christmas Wreath

 
 
Supplies Needed
Straight pins
Glue
Styrofoam shape-circle
Ribbon for hanging
Fabric: 2 inch fabric squares*
Optional:Items for embellishment

*The number of squares needed is determined by 1) the size of your circle and 2) how close the squares are inserted into the Styrofoam.  

You made benefit by the use of a thimble if pushing the pins causes soreness on your fingers.

There is an added step you can do for preparing your wreath. Cover the Styrofoam shape in fabric to hide any “whiteness” from peaking through and to give the glue on the pin an extra thing to hold onto.
Start by placing your ribbon in the spot for hanging it up after it is finished. The pins of fabric will hold the ribbon in place. This will also help you in determining the top if it is necessary for your pattern.
Cut the 2 inch squares of fabric. One fabric pattern can be used or many can be used. Insert the squares in any way you wish, random, rows, columns, or a particular pattern. This wreath was made with 4 different Christmas fabrics in a random pattern.
Insert the pins into the center of the square of fabric squares and gently pinch the square into quarters. If pinched too hard and folds are created in the fabric, the fabric will not “bloom” open after inserting into the wreath and it will take more to cover the wreath. Dip the tip of the pin into glue and insert into the wreath.

Continue to poke squares into the Styrofoam until it is finished. Covering the back is optional. The wreath will lay flatter against the wall if the back is not covered. If you wrapped the wreath in a rectangular section of fabric, the Styrofoam will not be visible.

For some added embellishment, Christmas bulbs were included to add some sparkle.

An alternative method of making a no-sew fabric wreath is to lay the fabric flat and glue to the Styrofoam. The one of the right was covered with batting before the squares were glued on. The pins were used to poke the corners down onto the wreath. Then the raw edges and pin heads were covered in glitter glue. A few extra dots of glitter glue finished the project.

 

Robes


Adult's robe

Child's robe
 
I made fleece robes for my husband and niece. My husband wanted his roomy. I think that I over accomplished that goal. My niece wanted hers snug and that was accomplished as well. She also wanted hers to be made from the same fleece as her uncle's. Sweet how a child's mind thinks. There is no tutorial for these. I used the measurement of old robes, with adjustments were needed. Each is longer than the original robes so they could cover the legs on a cold winter's night.